Master goldsmith Sean Gilson, creator of Assael’s signature Bubbles Collection, has been at the bench working his magic for months on some extraordinary new designs for Assael. His over four-decades career in fine jewelry reflects a genuine commitment to innovation, not only in the art of design itself but also in the craft of making fine jewelry. We sat down with him recently to discuss his thoughts on true innovation, as well as some insights into his latest masterpieces for Assael, each of them extraordinary in their own way.

Innovation for Sean is purposeful, by design. “I have been guided my whole career by the idea that what I am making has to contribute something new to the field of fine jewelry, either from a design or technical perspective,” he says. That commitment to ingenuity, coupled with his incredible skill and craftsmanship, is reflected in everything he creates. The subtle elegance of a Sean Gilson piece often inspires comments like “I’ve never seen anything like that before.” 

We asked him about his design inspirations, and Sean says that for him, it is rarely an idea that comes on suddenly. Rather, design inspiration evolves over time, stemming from a wide variety of sources, including his technical competence, the materials themselves, and his life experiences. “Technical competence is important because there are fewer limitations for me when imagining a piece, given my experience at the bench. If I can design it, I can make it,” says Sean. “Materials often influence the concept of a piece, as well, especially when it comes to color and form. And finally, experiences have an especially important influence in what gets designed and made, whether it be my personal or professional experiences.”

The Spindrift Necklace

The new Spindrift necklace by Sean Gilson for Assael made its debut at the recent Couture show in Las Vegas to great acclaim. Named after the spray blown from the crest of a wave by the wind (the “spindrift”), this necklace is a one-of-a-kind treasure that drew attention and accolades from both luxury press and buyers alike. We asked Sean about the back-story behind this extraordinary work of art. 

“The spindrift necklace originated 40 years ago from a pin I designed. The pin was made of gold with pearls and diamonds, and I always thought it would make a great necklace, as well. All these years later, I finally got to make the necklace. I imagined materials other than gold for the neck torque. In addition to gold, I also considered wood and hardstone, but ultimately, I decided on patterned carbon fiber. Now, there has been jewelry made of carbon fiber before, but those with patterning were all done on flat or single-planed curvature, not compound ones. I wanted to do something new.”

And he created something very new indeed! The Spindrift necklace features a collar of patterned carbon fiber that culminates in a beautiful spray of pearls and diamonds. It sits high on the collarbone, a magnificent statement piece that is truly one of a kind.

Creating such a piece is not without its challenges, especially given his desire to create something new with the patterned carbon fiber. Sean explained… “One of the many challenges in this piece was how to create a helixing tapered element with woven patterning that would add subtle dimension to complement the diamond and pearl spray.” 

When asked how he achieved it, Sean was generous with his detailed explanation. “The core of the collar is made of 18K white gold wire which I then wrapped with the carbon fiber tow and epoxy. Tow is a special type of carbon fiber that comes in various densities and widths, in this case 15 and 25 millimeters wide. This particular tow is considered a strategic material, so I had to get a special export license to get it sent from the U.K.”

“I wrapped the epoxy around the gold wire and eventually on itself, coating it with a special epoxy mixture so it adheres to itself. I then wrapped the gold wire with this special carbon fiber over and over, filing any spaces until I realized the desired dimensions. In between wrapping the tow, I would file areas to get the taper desired. Then, the final patterned carbon fiber was applied. Successive passes were made with a very fine file to even out the surface, being very careful not to diminish the pattern, to achieve the final nuanced contour the piece needed. A fine paste wax was applied to get a satin finish that is wearable. I enjoy the process but am sometimes not sure where it will lead. That’s the adventure of making a piece like this.”

The necklace also has an innovative clasp to make it easy for the wearer to put on and remove. We asked Sean to explain the clasp, as well. “The hinging and closure mechanism was another issue, because you must minimize the contact on those patterned surfaces so that the carbon fiber doesn’t chip or wear on itself. For the hinging, I used a multi-part hinge which opens out and away from the hinge point and has minimum lateral movement. For the clasp, simple is better, so a tension closure was used. Using both of these elements, working together, the necklace is easily opened and closed.”

Truly innovative in both design and technique, this contemporary necklace is a wearable work of art. Sean combined South Sea Cultured Pearls, Akoya Pearls, and more than 11 carats of Diamonds in the spray that seems to burst forth from the torque of woven Carbon Fiber over 18K White Gold. The remarkable hinge and clasp are hidden, so the collar appears seamless. The joyful spray is hand-crafted in 18 and 19K white gold.

Natural Pearl and Pear Diamond Ring

Another of the newest Sean Gilson for Assael designs is the splendid Natural Pearl and Pear Diamond ring.  At first glance, this ring may look like a typical piece of beautiful fine jewelry. But as Sean Gilson explains, the innovation here is in the technical aspect of the diamond setting. 

“This ring started out with the idea of having pearls around a diamond,” says Sean. “Normally, the diamonds would be set traditionally with pearls surrounding the pear-shaped diamond. But an idea of the diamond floating in a sea of pearls had a subversive appeal to me. No Prongs? No prongs. I decided to use the pearls AS the prongs.”

This ring is a good example of design inspiration coming from the materials themselves, their form and color. Because this diamond was a large size, over 5 carats, Sean felt that it warranted using natural pearls. He continued, “I was supplied by the Assael team with colored pearls of varying sizes. The challenge with using any colored pearls is achieving the desired effect while having the correct sizes, as well as colors that relate to each other. In this case there was a preliminary layout, but some of the sizes and colors just did not work. I had to rearrange and select other natural pearls. Not all of them were round, but I was able to find some very close to round natural pearls from the Assael inventory with sizes and colors that worked together well.”

In order to use the pearls as prongs to make this diamond really float in a sea of pearls, Sean had to get creative and be precise.  He explains, “The placement of the pearls had to be precise for two reasons. First, there could be no or very small spaces between the pearls. And secondly, they had to cover enough of the diamond to hold it securely but not too much to encroach on its beauty. The ring was made in platinum to minimize the visual metal content while having the strength and wearability for a ring of this importance.”

The eight natural round pearls in this exquisite ring range in size from 4.41 – 6.16 mm, and the one near-round natural pearl measures 4.74 x 4.25 mm. The drop shape natural pearl at the bottom tip of the ring is 7.71 x 6.80 mm. The luscious pear diamond at center weighs 5.05 carats. This ring is a treasure for those who avoid bling, as the incredible craftsmanship is hidden in Sean’s thoughtful construction.

Bubble Diamond Ring

One of the newest pieces in the Bubble collection by Sean Gilson for Assael is this stunning new diamond and pearl Bubble ring. At the recent Las Vegas show, the press described this ring as “a diamond taking a bubble bath” with natural and cultured pearls being the bubbles.

We asked Sean about his inspiration behind this ring.  “For me, this ring is all about accentuating the beautiful emerald cut diamond. A 7+ carat diamond is serious, so I wanted to ‘loosen’ it up and make it more fun, more wearable. The bubbles by their nature have a youthful exuberance which is why I used them here.” Effectively, Sean made this diamond very wearable as the ring easily dresses up or down and feels appropriate for today’s casual luxury vibe. 

Both natural and cultured pearls are featured in this ring, so we asked Gilson why. He explained, “I often use different species or types of pearls because it gives a visual texture and dimensionality, given the varying qualities and colors of nacre that each pearl has. The pearls selected for this ring had to be proportionate to each other, as well as to the diamond, for me to be able to control how the eye focuses on the whole and each of the elements.” 

To support the weight of the higher quantity of pearls in this ring (as compared to the pear diamond ring above), a more traditional diamond setting was required. Sean elaborates, “The diamond was set traditionally with four small platinum prongs in the corners, and because the pearls reflect off some of the facets, the visual of the prongs is minimized. Each of the various technical and design decisions individually are an important part of how they relate to each other and how the ring turns out. What I try for, in this and other pieces, is to make each element indispensable to the other.”  The final product does just that – one truly cannot imagine this diamond taking a bubble bath with any other pearls. 

This spectacular one-of-a-kind ring stars an Emerald-Cut Diamond, weighing 7.30 carats, F color, and VVS1 clarity, surrounded by 11 Natural Pearls (1.42mm) and 24 Baby Akoya Pearls (3.0 – 6.0mm). 

Black Jade Pearl Hoops

Another exciting and fresh design from Sean Gilson is the new pair of black jade pearl hoops. These earrings are perfect for some of the continuing runway trends – the monochrome white looks, the black and white trend, and the enduring neutrals.  We asked Sean about his thoughts on these earrings, as well… 

“These earrings are all about form and fashion,” he says. “The colors are all neutrals, and the forms are simple geometric shapes. The key, as with many of the ‘simple’ things I do, is figuring out how to do something new and innovative with basic shapes and materials. Sometimes, with my visually simple designs, I am told that anybody could do it. I guess the fact that it wasn’t done before is lost on those who are not attuned to the history and nuance of fine jewelry.”

“In this case, the large black jadeite toroids (rings) are a perfect shape and a perfect frame for the pearls. The design elements must appeal visually, and technically, you need to have a way to wear the earrings. The Goshenite elongated stones provided enough room to cover the lobes and hold the clips or backs of the earrings, while the position of the antique Le Carre cut diamonds provided the ability of the jadeite rings to move as they dangle or hang. That subtle sense of movement catches attention without being overtly showy, and the pearls appear to float inside the hoops. It is a very wearable pair of earrings. They can be worn with a wide variety of clothes and/or situations, from jeans to special occasion dresses.”

These earrings feature 16.21 carats of Goshenite, two Le Carre cut Diamonds (0.32 tcw.), and six South Sea Pearls (8.0 – 13.0 mm) with two-inch round Black Jadeite hoops, set in Platinum with custom clips.

True innovation is rare and difficult to realize. Humans have been making adornment for millennia, and it often feels like it has all been done before. The difference with jewelry is its personal aspect and how it relates to the wearer through celebrations and cultural traditions. Often, it is in the newness of the context that the results are exciting, and the jewelry feels fresh and alluring. Sean Gilson’s innovations are sure to put a smile on your face and make you feel special every time you wear them. His talent for fusing innovation in both design and craftsmanship is rare. We are lucky to have him and his astonishing genius as part of the Assael team. Stay tuned for more Sean Gilson for Assael pieces as we have challenged him to bring his particular bent toward newness to the classic pairing of pearl and diamonds! We cannot wait to see what comes next.

Feature image to top – clockwise from upper left – Spindrift Necklace by Sean Gilson for Assael, Sean Gilson working at his jeweler’s bench, Natural Pearl and Pear Diamond ring by Sean Gilson for Assael, Diamond and Pearl Bubble Ring by Sean Gilson for Assael.

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Designing with Keshi Pearls – How Shape, Luster, and Color Create Magnificence